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Crab Soba With Maitake And Pea Shoots

Crab Soba With Maitake And Pea Shoots


A refreshing cold noodle dish with Japanese flavors, perfect for summertime.MORE+LESS-

1

clove garlic, finely minced

8

oz maitake mushrooms (or shiitake, or other mushroom), broken or cut into bite-sized pieces

8

oz pea shoots, leaves removed and stems chopped

2

tbsp ponzu soy sauce (Japanese yuzu soy sauce) or regular soy sauce

1

lb lump crab meat (preferably Dungeness), or meat from one Dungeness crab

6

oz soba (Japanese buckwheat noodles)

1/2

cup Persian, Japanese or other seedless cucumber, finely sliced

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  • 1

    Heat the cooking oil over medium-high heat, and saute the garlic and maitake mushrooms until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the pea shoots and stir-fry until just wilted. Set aside to cool down.

  • 2

    Whisk together the ponzu (or soy sauce), rice vinegar, mirin, sake, sesame oil and ginger. Add the crab and allow to marinate.

  • 3

    Cook the soba, and rinse well in cold water until cooled to just below room temperature.

  • 4

    Toss the cooked, cooled soba with the maitake and pea shoots, sauce, crab, and cucumbers and sprinkle the sesame seeds over the top for presentation.

No nutrition information available for this recipe


GoNOLA Recipes at Home: Crab Potstickers with Pea Shoot Butter

You know it’s Louisiana Seafood Festival this weekend, but did you know it’s also National Seafood Month? With that in mind, this week’s Recipes at Home features one of the ocean’s most prized catches: crab. Stuffed with ingredients from both land and sea (chanterelle mushrooms, lobster roe and ham, to name a few), these crab potstickers from GW Fins are pockets of pure flavor. Homemade pea shoot butter sauce bathes each potsticker in buttery richness and surprising notes of earthy flavor.


Steamed fish with pea shoots

There it is at the seafood market, a whole fish, gleaming fresh, eyes bulging, looking like it just flopped up from out of the ocean. It’s so gorgeous you have to buy it. Now the question is: What the heck are you supposed to do with it?

The answer is simple: Just about anything. There are few things easier to cook than a whole fish.

And not only is a whole fish more beautiful to serve than a fillet (once you get past that silly “Eek! It looks like a fish!” reaction -- what are you, in fifth grade?), it tastes better too. Just like any other meat cooked on the bone, fish cooked in the round is moister and more flavorful.

Even better, it’s incredibly flexible. You can use almost any cooking technique you can think of, and you’ll get a very different dish each time.

Probably the easiest is simply steaming it, in the Chinese fashion: Put the fish on a plate sprinkle it with shredded ginger, green onions and a little soy sauce put the plate in a steamer and cook. In 10 or 15 minutes, you’ll have a perfectly moist, beautifully fragrant dish.

No, wait, maybe it’s roasting: Stuff the cavity with herbs and lemon slices put the fish on a baking sheet scatter a few lemon slices over top and bake at 400 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes. The skin will crisp slightly and the meat will pick up hints of the herbs and lemon.

Or you can simply grill it over a medium-hot fire or under the broiler and the only thing the fish needs to be complete is a light drizzling of flavored oil.

The list goes on: You can poach a whole fish in a pan of barely simmering, fragrant fish broth. You can even deep-fry it by dusting it with flour or cornstarch and submerging it in bubbling oil. (Use a slightly lower temperature of 350 degrees to avoid scorching the outside before the center is cooked through.)

MOST of the whole fish you’ll find at the market belong to one of two fairly similar species, though this can get a little confusing because fishmongers have always felt perfectly comfortable calling fish by names that rightfully belong to other species.

The most popular whole fish at local markets is usually called New Zealand snapper or Tai snapper (the latter is not a misspelling -- tai is the Japanese word for this kind of fish). Though it is a very good fish, it is not truly a snapper it is a porgy. Neither is it real Japanese tai. It’s a cousin, along with the fish the French call daurade. It is caught in the wild, mostly off New Zealand.

The other most commonly available whole fish is the variety that is alternately called loup de mer or branzino, depending on whether the market is feeling French or Italian that day. This fish, once hard to find in the United States, has become widely available now that it is farmed in several Mediterranean countries. (The wild is still available but only rarely and at elevated prices.)

From time to time, you will also find other whole fish, including wild striped bass. (Don’t mistake it for its farmed freshwater cousin, which often tastes as muddy as tilapia.) You can also still find the old favorite rockfish, though it is much scarcer than it used to be due to the closure of much of its fishery for conservation.

All of these fish have a sweet, mild flavor. Their flesh is firm and flaky -- at least compared with sole, which is soft and flaky, and shark and swordfish, which are firm and meaty.

And while these fish certainly are not the same, they are similar enough that they can be used interchangeably in recipes -- like substituting lime for lemon, the results will be different, but they will be good.

Cooking whole fish is not only fast, it’s surprisingly easy.

What about all that nasty scaling and gutting? Forget about them: Any store that sells whole fish will also do most of the advance preparation for you as well. Do not pass up this service. There are few tasks that will wreck a kitchen faster than scaling fish -- the scales are transparent when wet and will stick like glue after they’ve dried.

And though gutting a fish is something that all cooks should do a time or two to familiarize themselves more thoroughly with its anatomy, that’s a chore that can be safely left to the professionals most of the time too.

This leaves you with only a little bit of neatening up when you get home -- basically just removing the fins. The best tool for this is a sturdy pair of poultry shears. Trim the fins behind the gills and along the back and the two pairs underneath. Trimming the tail is optional, though it is sometimes necessary for the fish to fit in the pan. Most good fishmongers will even do all of this too.

The only thing left is to score the skin lightly along the midsection on both sides about every 2 inches. Use a sharp knife the cut should just break the skin and the first layer of flesh, but not go to the bone. This helps the heat penetrate to the center of the fish.

OK, now that the requisite mechanics are out of the way, how are you going to cook that fish?

The most important choice you have to make when thinking about preparing fish is whether you want to use dry heat, which will firm the flesh and crisp the skin, or moist heat, which will turn the flesh silky and leave the skin moist.

You then need to think about whether you want to show off the natural flavor of the fish, or introduce other ingredients that offer a little more complexity.

Broiling and steaming may result in opposite effects in terms of texture, but they share an affinity for best showing off a fish’s subtle natural flavor.

Try steaming a fish Chinese-style and, just before it’s done, burying it in a mound of sweet green pea shoots moistened with just a hint of sesame oil. The pea shoots cook just long enough to brighten into a vivid green. The color and flavor are lovely complements to the fish.

Or broil it and serve it simply with a drizzle of good olive oil and a dash of sea salt. That’s delicious, but it’s amazing how just a little bit of basil-flavored olive oil will emphasize the herbal flavors of the fish. Salting the fish beforehand firms the flesh and seasons it through.

Braising also keeps the fish extremely moist and gives you the opportunity to add other flavors. Add just enough liquid to come to come barely halfway up the fish -- with the cooking juices it’ll be practically covered by the time it’s done. For a Provencal braise, lay the fish on a bed of sliced tomatoes and black olives, and pour over it a quick broth made from herbs, white wine and water. When it emerges from the oven 45 minutes to an hour later, you’ll have a lovely fish stew bursting with a complex perfume.

Pan-roasting is a combination of sauteing and roasting that crisps the skin but allows the center to cook more gently. Wrapping the fish in prosciutto allows you to add another layer of texture and is even better when you loosely stuff the fish with sauteed mushrooms. The sweet pork funkiness of the crisped ham is a perfect foil for the moist, mild fish.

Roasting works much the same way but with less intense heat, allowing you to incorporate a few more ingredients. You might stuff the fish with a sprig of rosemary and lemon slices and cook it on a bed of herb-scented fingerling potatoes. It’s a full meal that looks impressive but takes only a few minutes of work.


The Crossing

My parents have been eating at The Crossing for years, but I had never been before this Saturday. I was always afraid it was going to fall into the same category as former restaurants Zinnia's and Chez Leon. Dark and outdated with old man waiters who had gotten too fat to fit in their overly formal outfits. I have no idea why I thought that, but I learned Friday that I was pretty off-target with my assumption. Assuming makes an ass out of 'u' and me, but in this case it was mostly just me. The restaurant is small, but that adds to its charm. It's got so much wine in it that they actually use it as dividers between the upper and lower section, which means The Crossing would be awesome to be stuck in during a snowstorm or zombie apocalypse. Maybe the smartest part of having such an ample wine selection is that all the art on the walls is for sale. You'll be there on a date with a pretty girl, wining and dining her, but then you'll have a bit too much to drink and the male bravado will kick in. Next thing you know, you'll wake up at home alone, hungover and the proud new owner of a $1,500 painting.

There's an a la carte section of the menu, but the tasting menu is a much better deal and is recommended by the chef. There are two main tasting menus: The Crossing Tasting Menu($32.00) and The Premium Tasting Menu ($45.00). Each comes with your choice of a first course, second course, entree and dessert. For $20/30 more, you can add a wine flight. If you're too lazy to make a decision on your own, you can opt for the Chef's Grand Tasting Menu($85.00).

As we debated about what to order, a plate of goodies was brought to our table. Tiny slices of toast with a hot, rich, caramelized Bleu Cheese Soufflé. This was like a classy version of a college favorite called "The Blue Zone", which was basically just bleu cheese jammed inside of pizza dough. Ah, the good old fat days.

Out of the three of us eating, one got The Crossing Tasting Menu and the other two got The Premium Tasting Menu. I went with the Premium, because I'm fancy and stuff. Let the ordering commence!

The waiter and his excellent muttonchops helped us navigate our way through all the choices. Decisions were made and eating commenced. We all shared bites and I took photos of all the dishes, so here is a comprehensive review of 10 of The Crossing's dishes. Each will be ranked by how much I liked them.

The first round of starters were:

The soup of the day: Roasted Vegetable Soup with a drizzle of basil pesto. I really enjoyed the smokey flavor of the roasted vegetables mixed with the pesto. It had a serious kick from a jalapeño or some other spice, making it a very solid soup overall.

2. Roasted Beet Salad with creamy goat cheese, mascarpone, toasted pine nuts, sherry vinegar, pine nuts and pea shoots. I go nuts for roasted beets mixed with creamy cheese and wish I had ordered this myself. Really beautiful presentation. I'm definitely going to steal this and make a worse version of it for a lady one day.

3. Duck Liver Mousse with whole grain mustard, pickled red onion, pea shoots and little crostini. Take note, readers: I do not particularly enjoy liver mousses, pates or terrines. Yet I ordered one. I was hoping for enlightenment and I received it. While this was my least favorite of the starters, I have no problem recommending it to you ground up liver lovers.

On to the second courses! This is the reason I actually picked the Premium tasting menu. I love egg raviolo and the way the yolk oozes out all over the plate when you cut into them. It probably feels a lot like getting a great gift on Christmas, a feeling I've never experienced as a Jew.

This is probably a shocker after the comment above, but I actually enjoyed the Crab Cake with Brussels sprout leaves and lemon basil aioli more. So often you will find crab cakes that taste mostly like bread and mayo, but not this bad boy. This hockey puck sized crab cake was full of crab, had a nice crunch to it and that lemon basil aioli paired with it perfectly. Great springtime dish.

2. The other two of us got the Egg Raviolo with shaved Brussels sprouts, fresh parsley and lardons. It was HUGE. Normally people complain about not getting enough food with set menus, but not here. This thing was gluttony on a plate. As I cut into it and the yolk spilled out, I saw there was mascarpone inside it as well. Jessssus. I could have eaten just this and gone to sleep. I was expecting something light and delicate, but instead got something dense both in size and flavor. Really tasty course, just a bit too heavy for my waif-like figure

By the time the entrees came out, I could already feel I was almost at maximum capacity. I did not prepare myself for so much food!

1. My favorite of the entrees was not my own. It was the Texas Quail with Yukon gold crushed potatoes, pea shoots, mushrooms and balsamic reduction. I couldn't believe how succulent the comically tiny bird was. It was the tastiest dish of the entire evening, I think. And the cutest! I felt like Andre the Giant eating a regular sized chicken.

2. My choice was the Roasted Duck Breast served on a white corn polenta with turnips, radishes, duck leg confit and a bing cherry jus. That was some sexy looking duck. Duck breast is not my favorite (leg confit takes that honor), but this was quite good, particularly when dipped into the cherry jus.

3. I rarely get steak when we go out because I find it to be too common. Even if a restaurant is using a high quality cut of meat, my preference is go with something more complex that I wouldn't have at home. Even so, their Rain Crow Ranch grass-fed beef tenderloin with root vegetable gratin, black kale and bordelaise had good flavors with juicy meat.

Dessert after all of this? My stomach was already stretched nearly to the max. but I persisted. We decided on two desserts that were equal in deliciousness. The Financier cake with ginger gelato and streusel was about the size of a muffin with a delicate almond flavor. The gelato of the night was an Orange Chai. I was hesitant about the combo, but it was actually delicious. It reminded me of summertime in southeast Asia.


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I finally made these for a Christmas party this year and they were a big hit! I made the wasabi mayo, prepped the radishes and pea shoots (I did a very fine dice on the radishes rather than slice into strips and chopped the pea shoots into ½ pieces) and made the cucumber cups the day before the party. The afternoon of the party, I mixed the salad together and spooned into the cucumber cups. Although there is a big kick to the wasabi and radishes, the cucumber does a nice job of cooling it down. Delicious!

Just what was needed to start off the menu! I made this w/o the sprouts and it was very good, I love the wasabi and lime together, and the coolness of the cucumber. Simple, quick and delish!

If you are using the wasabi/mayo dressing as a drizzle/dressing on it's own, cut the salt in half. I drizzled it over ahi tuna tacos made with wonton wrappers, stuffed with an asian slaw with the ginger vinaigrette from this site - yummalicious!

This was delicious and my guests were impressed with how lovely they looked. They were easy to assemble. I made what I could the day before (the mayo, the cucumber cups, prepped the sprouts) and was able to quickly put it all together shortly before my party started. I highly recommend this recipe!

I made these twice. Fortunately I made a test batch before making them for a large party because the Wasabi as indicated in the recipe was overpowering. Some of my "testers" did not even know there was crab in the recipe! I would not bother to make these with really good fresh crab, but to doctor up less than great crab, for a large crowd, its fine--but start with half the wasabi and taste test from there.

I thought this dish was great! Really need to season the salad to taste and not too much effort involved. Very nice presentation also.

I thought that the presentation was beautiful, but the overall result was just mediocre. Everyone commented on how elegant they looked, but did not seem to really enjoy how they tasted. I found the cucumber cups "mushy."

This appetizer was a hit! I brought it to a party and everyone was absolutely blown away by the presentation plus they were delicious as well. They were the first thing to go and people were asking about them all night. The cucumber cups take some work but overall the recipe is not very difficult and definitely worth the effort.

Made this is an appetizer, but can't wait to try it as a party hors d'oevres, it was perfect! Did without the radishes and sprouts, but sprinkled a bit of chopped cilantro at the last minute for color. Yum!

I cut the amount of wasabi in half and thought it added a nice zing without overpowering the crab. Presentation is great!

Very simple to make and very tasty. I couldn't find a cutter to make the pretty pattern so I peeled the cucumbers, then before slicing them, I used the side of a zester that makes strips and ran it down the sides of the cucumber a few times and when I sliced them, I got the desired effect. I didn't have any sprouts so I used chive blossom instead.

I really liked this althouh I used non-lump crabmeat. Will make it again, only I'll be truer to the recipe. The Lime wasabi was awesome!


Recipes

Bring all ingredients except the gellans to the boil, once boiled add the gellans and whisk for 2 minutes just under boiling point, place into a bowl over ice and whilst cooling use a hand blender to break up any setting lumps, keep blending until smooth and totally cool, pass through a sieve and place in plastic squirty bottles.

Mango and dashi sorbet

Dissolve the glucose and dashi with the Kikkoman Soy Sauce, mango puree and water, churn in an ice cream machine and freeze untilrequired.

Sweet pea panna cotta

First make thesweet pea cream by bringing all the ingredients up to a gentle simmer for 5 minutes, next blitz and pass the liquid and taste for seasoning,soak ¾ of a bronze leaf of gelatine in cold water until soft, weigh 400g of the sweet pea cream and whisk in the gelatine whilst still warm, pour a small amount into a desired mould.

Crab mayonnaise

Steam or boil the live crab for 12-15 minutes depending on size and refresh into ice cold water, whilst cooling make the mayonnaise by whisking the egg yolks and mustard and vinegar together. Next gradually whisk in the oil very slowly so it emulsifies and thickens to mayonnaise consistency. Season and place in fridge until required.

Crack the crab claws and pick out all the white crab meat, pick through a few times to remove all the shell. Mixwith a small amount of the mayonnaise until the right consistency check for seasoning.

Lemon confit

Peel 2 lemons keeping the strips as whole as possible, blanch them three times in separate pans ofboiling water. Whilst blanching them, make a stock syrup from 30g of white wine vinegar and 30g of sugar reduce this down to a syrup and chill. Next slice the blanched lemonvery thin and add to the syrup once the syrup is cold.

Place a spoonful of crab mayonnaise onto the pea panna cottaand flatten down, next arrange the popped garden peas, then the lemon confit strips, followed by the edible flowers or pea shoots. Finally add a small ball of the mango and Kikkoman dashi sorbet on the top of the panna cotta. Pipe dots of the lemon gel on top of the crab randomly and serve immediately.


Recipe Summary

  • 2 tablespoons benne seeds, plus more for garnish
  • 2 (12-ounce) bottles ale-style beer
  • 3 cups White Lily self-rising flour
  • Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 16 small morels, cleaned
  • 4 ramps, trimmed and cleaned
  • 1/2 pound shelled English peas
  • 1/3 cup homemade or store-bought low-sodium vegetable stock
  • Canola oil, for frying
  • 4 soft-shell crabs, cleaned
  • 4 large eggs
  • Pistou
  • 4 fresh pea shoots, for garnish

In a large bowl, whisk together benne seeds, beer, and flour until well combined season with a pinch of salt. Transfer batter to refrigerator and let chill for 30 minutes.

Heat 1 tablespoon butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add morels and cook, stirring for 3 minutes. Add ramps, peas, and vegetable stock continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until ramps are wilted and peas are bright green, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside.

Meanwhile, fill a large Dutch oven 5 inches high with canola oil. Heat oil over high heat until it reaches 350 degrees on a deep-fry thermometer.

Remove batter from refrigerator and dredge each crab in batter, shaking off excess. Transfer crabs to hot oil and cover Dutch oven with a splatter guard (crabs will sizzle and pop while cooking). Cook, turning once, until crabs are golden and crisp, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer crabs to a paper towel-lined baking sheet.

Place a tablespoon of butter in each of 2 medium nonstick skillets heat skillets over medium heat until butter is frothy. Reduce heat to low and crack an egg into each skillet cook, basting whites with butter using a spoon, until whites are set but yolks are still runny. Season with salt and pepper. Remove eggs from skillets and repeat process with remaining 2 eggs.

Divide pistou evenly among 4 serving plates. Place a crab on each plate and top each with an egg. Divide morels, ramps, and peas evenly among plates garnish each with a pea shoot and benne seeds. Serve immediately.


GW Fins Crab Potstickers with Pea Shoot Butter

Serves 4
Ingredients:
1 pound very fresh lean fish filet (snapper, grouper) diced and almost frozen
1 egg
2 cups cold heavy cream
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons Minor’s crab base
1/2 cup diced green onions (sweat in olive oil and cool)
1 tablespoon lobster or crab roe (or orange tobiko from a sushi bar)
1 pound jumbo lump crab, picked
2 tablespoons cooked salt-cured ham, diced
2 tablespoons sautéed chanterelles, diced
Gyoza skins (round wonton wraps)

Pea shoot butter ingredients:
1 stick butter
1/4 cup boiling water
3 tablespoons fresh pea shoots, diced

To prepare the mouselline, place the almost frozen diced fish in a chilled food processor and work on high for one minute. Add the egg and continue on high speed until the mixture gathers, stopping to scrape down the sides. Gradually add the cold cream on high in a thin stream, pausing a couple of times to let the mixture gather if needed. Work quickly so that the mixture stays very cold. It should be the consistency of freshly churned ice cream. Remove to an iced bowl and stir in the balance of ingredients until incorporated. Refrigerate on ice.

To prepare the potstickers, place about 8 gyoza skins on a clean work surface and put a heaping tablespoon of mouselline in the center of each. Thoroughly moisten the edges with a 50/50 cornstarch and water slurry and top with another gyoza skin. Crimp the edges upwards, folding them in as you go and making a sort of upturned hat shape. Place in a single layer on a pan well dusted with cornstarch. Refrigerate and repeat until finished.

To prepare the pea shoot butter, heat a large coffee mug with some boiling water or in the microwave until very hot. Quickly place the chopped peashoots and the cut up stick of butter in the mug and add 1/4 cup of water at a rolling boil. Mix well with an immersion blender or place in a regular blender (cover with a porous cloth – not a tightly fitting lid) and blend until emulsified. Hold in a hot water bath until served.

Before serving the potstickers, boil them for about 3 to 4 minutes and drain. Melt butter in a Teflon pan and brown the tops. Serve the potstickers with pea shoot butter, and garnish with pea shoots and chanterelles.


Pasta with Mushrooms and Pea Shoots

I started a Facebook page to go with my website a couple weeks ago called Creative Tips & Techniques to make Everything Delicious. Since then I have changed the name of the website, but feel they are close enough. Well, I digress. I mentioned that if a food picture gets over a certain amount of likes I will post the recipe and this did. It is a quick and delicious dinner for 2. I liked using that shaped pasta because the mushrooms hid inside, but you can use whatever you wish. Feel free to double. Make sure you read the recipe through before starting because some cooking and soaking liquids are reserved. I go over this here.

Pasta with Mushrooms and Pea Shoots

  • 4 oz pasta
  • 2 T garlic confit oil + about 3 T of the confit garlic cloves
  • 1/4 C finely diced shallot
  • 3/4 oz dried maitake or other dried mushroom, reconstituted in 2 C hot water
  • 3 oz sliced fresh cremini or baby bella mushrooms
  • 1/2 tsp thyme
  • 1/4 tsp marjoram
  • 1 small tomato, chopped
  • 2 oz pea shoots (if not available you can use peas) plus add’l for garnish
  • salt & pepper
  • 1/4 C cream
  • 1/4 C parmesan
  • truffle oil

Cook the pasta until almost done, reserving about 1/2 C of the cooking water before draining.

You can use scallions in place of the shallots.

Heat the oil, add the shallots, sprinkling them with a bit of salt and saute them until they are softened and starting to brown.

Reconstituting Dried Mushrooms. This is way more than you need for this recipe

Drain the mushrooms, saving about 1 C of the soaking liquid. Strain the liquid to make sure there is no sand in it. Add both types of mushrooms to the pan with the shallots. Season them with the herbs, salt and pepper. Saute the mushrooms until they start to brown. Add the tomato add cook a few more minutes. Add the reserved mushroom liquid and cream and cook until reduced by half. Add the pasta, pea shoots, garlic confit and 3 T of the Parmesan. Cook until the pasta is al dente, draining reserving some of the pasta water to use if the sauce is too thick. Serve garnished with some pea shoots, the remaining Parmesan, pepper and drizzle with the truffle oil. Serve immediately. Enjoy and eat well.


Crab Soba With Maitake And Pea Shoots - Recipes

Puree of Spring Pea Soup with Pea Shoots and Ginger Lemon Crab Cake


For 6 servings
3 pounds of fresh peas, shelled
1 cup vegetable stock
salt
white pepper
blender

Bring a pot of water to a boil and season the water with salt. Blanch the peas in batches, until the peas are tender, cool down the peas in a bowl filled with ice and water. Once all the peas are cooled down, blend them with the vegetable stock in batches and pass through the strainer, adjust the consistency if needed with vegetable stock or water and season to taste with salt and white pepper.

Crab Cake
½ pound fresh crab meat
1 Tablespoon mayonnaise
½ Teaspoon grated ginger
½ Teaspoon grated lemon zest
1 Tablespoon chopped mint
Bread crumbs
1 egg

Mix all the ingredients together, and form the crab cakes, dip into the egg and the coat with the bread crumbs. Start by heating a medium non stick pan with a little canola oil, and sauté the crab cakes on both sides until golden brown, keep warm. Wipe the pan clean and re heat, take a hand full of the pea shoots, and sauté quickly with a little canola oil and a pinch of salt, place the pea shoots in among the serving bowls in the center and add one crabcake on top.

Ladle in the soup and serve. The soup may be served hot or cold

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